New Deal Europe Weekly Update on Tourism to the Balkan Region, Week 48
Report from a Tour Operator on a FAM trip to the Balkans
The UK government announced that from 19th July travel to amber list countries will no longer be discouraged for those who have been double vaccinated. This opens up massive opportunities for the Balkan region, as all the countries there are currently on the UK’s amber list. We spoke with Sunita Ramanand, Senior Travel Specialist at UK based tour operator, Travel The Unknown, shortly after she returned from a familiarisation trip to Montenegro, organised by RAMS Tours. We get her views on what travel is really like right now, and learn about her experience in beautiful Montenegro. She gives a real insight into current travel and paints a fantastic picture of a country developing its sustainable travel offering.
NDE: Hi Sunita, thanks for joining us today. You’ve just returned from a fam trip to Montenegro, no mean feat in these times of amber travel lists and quarantine. How did you find the experience of travelling across borders, and dealing with the regulations around amber travel lists?
SR: My pleasure to be here today! When reading up about travel to amber list countries, it sounds like more hassle than it is worth, but when I actually started to go through the different steps, I found the process was quite straightforward. The first step was to book the PCR test which must be done no more than 72 hours before travel. You can either order a home testing kit — most companies have drop boxes where you can drop off the samples to be returned within 36–48 hours — or visit one of your local pharmacies that carry out these tests. The cost can vary depending on the option you chose and do bear in mind that the 72 hour clock starts ticking from the moment you do the test. Companies like The Regenerative Clinic and Randox Health offer testing services around the country and are also listed on the gov.uk website, so the complete pre departure and post arrival (back into the UK) testing packages can be booked with them. Keep a print out or screenshot of your test results on your phone, handy to show at the airports. I flew into and out of Luton airport and found the airport to be quite organised. There were no long queues and I just sailed through the check in and security process. Once past that, it was like the old times again, browsing through the duty free, waiting for the boarding gate announcement etc. The only difference was the face masks worn by all passengers and staff. Arrival procedures at the other end were quick and smooth too.
About 72 hours before your return flight, it is time for a PCR test once again. It is easy enough if your trip is booked through a tour operator as the staff on the ground know the testing centres and will organise to take you to one of those. The PCR test results are emailed, so you don’t have to be in the city to collect the test results. If you haven’t already booked your Day 2 and 8 or Day 5 (Test to Release) tests before leaving the UK, you must do so two to three days before returning to the UK. It is important to book those before filling in the Passenger Locator Form as you will be required to put the details of the tests on the form. With all these tests out of the way, you are ready for your journey back. Again, do remember to keep the PCR test result and Passenger Locator Form details handy as these will be required at the time of check in. Back in London, everyone now has to go through immigration. No more whizzing past electronic passport gates. The queue moved fast and before too long my luggage and I were on our way home.
NDE: Are you in quarantine now and is it a price worth paying?
SR: I have to spend 10 days in quarantine following my return. Working from home is as good as a quarantine and with all the restrictions and lockdowns in the last 18 months, most of us have mastered the art of quarantining. And of course all the Rakija bought from the local producers makes quarantine time even better… haha.
The extra costs for all the testing can range between £150 and £300 depending on the country you visit and the number of tests in total (maximum 4). For example, Albania accepts fully vaccinated travellers so you do not need a PCR test before you travel. Montenegro will soon implement the same policy too. As for the PCR test before returning to the UK, Montenegro offers this for free to tourists visiting the country, and I really hope more countries follow suit. So if someone plans to fly into Albania, spend a few days there and travel to Montenegro, they can save the cost of two tests. If you travel for seven or more days, the additional cost may not feel too much over and above what one pays for the trip. Yes, if you travel as a family, the costs can add up. However, the quarantine rules seem set to change from 19 July. Quarantine will no longer be required if you have been double jabbed, and some of this procedure will be simplified as one less test is required, so let’s hope that gives travel the much needed boost.
Working from home is as good as a quarantine and with all the restrictions and lockdowns in the last 18 months, most of us have mastered the art of quarantining.
NDE: Sunita, why do you think you were selected to attend?
SR: Sabina and Musa Ramovic, the founders of RAMS Travel Agency in Montenegro, are among the pioneers of sustainable and responsible tourism in that country. They want travellers to enjoy and feel the authentic way of Montenegrin life as well as support the communities by staying and eating in local homes and buying local produce. RAMS Travel are also members of InnoTourClust, an innovative cluster model to improve the level of collaboration between SMEs, local stakeholders and business organizations in Italy, Albania & Montenegro. Tourism plays an important role in this project. To promote their concept to the UK market, Sabina and Musa were looking to work with a tour operator here who shares the same ethos and zeal, and Travel The Unknown was the perfect fit.
NDE: Excellent. I think that you should now tell us a little about Travel The Unknown and also about its programmes in the region?
SR: Travel The Unknown focuses on providing unique cultural experiences to our clients. This helps the travellers gain a deeper understanding of the people and their daily lives as well as the cultural, historical and political environment in which they live. We make use of locally owned accommodation, eateries and vehicles as well as supporting local community projects to ensure that locals will always benefit directly from our tours. The Balkans is the perfect place for curious travellers seeking an eclectic mix of culture, beauty and adventure in one of Europe’s least visited regions. With its variety of languages, customs, landscapes and offbeat experiences, we offer a range of single to multicountry, group, private and tailor made tours in the region. For those who want to trace the historical path and learn more about the Ottoman Empire’s 500-year dominance over the region, we offer archaeology centric itineraries too.
NDEL: Let’s look at the programme you did last week, but first, was this your first time in Montenegro?
This was my second visit to the country. The first one, in 2019, was a brief, very ‘touristy’ day trip from Dubrovnik, visiting Budva and Kotor. The old towns were really charming, especially Kotor.
NDE: I’m sure this trip gave you a different image of the country. Can you give us an outline of the itinerary?
SR: Definitely. We started our tour from the capital city, Podgorica. The first day of the tour was in the Bar region visiting the church of St Thomas and the nearby households of Ilija Klisić, (a local wine producer, generations of his family have been involved in wine production) and Mirjana Babić (her household is engaged in the production of olive oil and natural soaps). The afternoon was at Stari Bar, and onwards to Mira and Jelena’s place for dinner where our group joined the hosts in preparing traditional pasta from scratch. The next day started with a visit to the very charming little town of Cetinje, the former royal capital of the country. It is not too far from Podgorica and worth spending a full day there, exploring the town on foot. King Nikola’s museum is worth a visit. From there we had a scenic drive to Vujić winery, the home of Rajko and Danijela Vujić who had an array of traditional dishes laid out for the group. All ingredients were grown on their farm and freshly sourced and prepared. The drive between their winery and our next host, Djordje Bulajić’s farm in Grahovo, was via the breath taking Kotor Bay, also known as Boka. In the haze created by the overhead afternoon sun, the mountains looked suspended in the air! It was dark by the time we reached Ethno Village Izlazak for our overnight stay so we had no idea what was waiting for us the next morning!
Montenegro is a ‘rare find’! Eastern Europe is becoming increasingly popular with travellers from around the world and tucked away from that touristic hustle-bustle is this happy and laid back nation.
As the day dawned, the most magical views greeted our eyes. Perched atop a hill, we had the most fabulous views of the Piva lake. After a quick but hearty Montenegrin breakfast (believe me, it makes the full English look frugal!), we headed off for a short cruise on Lake Piva. Today was more of an adventure and scenic sights visit day. Off we drove to Camp Grab, owned by Dimitrije Vujanović and his family. This is one of the best places for rafting on the Tara river and the more adventurous can try zip lining nearby too. We had barely finished soaking in the beauty of the place when it was time to move on, via the panoramic ‘Durmitorski prsten’ route towards Žabljak. The mountains dotted with snow and the crystal clear lakes were a sight to behold! The last scenic stop of the day was Crno Jezero (Black Lake), before going onto Vera and Zoran Pavićević ‘s house for a traditional Montenegrin dinner.
Staying in the north, but heading east today, we drove over the Đurđevića Tara Bridge, a 365 meter high, concrete arch bridge over the Tara river, built between 1937 and 1940. The town of Pljevlja with the Holy Trinity Monastery and Husein Pasha’s mosque is well worth a visit. Those interested in archaeology can visit the local museum and visit the site of an ancient Roman settlement nearby. We had the opportunity to taste some delicious rose squash at Ismeta Džakić Rose Museum, as she likes to call her house and garden. After lunch at Jasmin Ajanovic’s Trebovina restaurant (he had some traditional Bosnian food prepared for us), we continued on our journey. A short break at a small village and a 1 km walk from there to the edge of the mountain revealed yet another spectacular sight, that of Meandra Ćehotina (meandering river). A few photographs later we drove on towards the town of Bijelo Polje, driving via the Vraneška Valley, listening to the love story of the local legends, Ahmet and Pava. Now was time for some work! It was a B2B meetings day, which was attended by many other InnoTourClust members from Montenegro, Albania & Italy. There was music and singing at the town square for all attendees — who says work cannot be fun! The whole group was hosted by Milomir Djalović for a traditional lunch. The day ended with a farewell dinner for the attendees at the lovely Ušće Restoran, by the river.
It was time to return to Podgorica. The drive via the Prokletije region reaffirmed the fact that Montenegro is truly the real gem of the Adriatic. It was time to say goodbye to the snow covered mountains as we drove along lake Skadar. The final dinner baked Carp, fresh catch of the day from Skader Lake, at Tomo and Tanja Uksanovic’s winery. I was in food heaven!
The drive via the Prokletije region reaffirmed the fact that Montenegro is truly the real gem of the Adriatic.
This is something worth mentioning really. Our flight back from Podgorica was at 7.00 am and we arrived at the airport around 5.15 am, to find it closed! We spent the next half hour, peering into the building, looking for signs of life! Close to 6.00 am, the water sprinklers outside came on…a positive sign. By then we had been joined by another passenger who was from Belgrade and like us, had never seen a closed airport in her life. Finally, the lights inside came on and the doors opened. From then on, everything moved very efficiently.
NDE: So this time you really got to see the entire country. I’m so glad you could see so much and you really paint a great picture of everywhere you visited and the experiences you had. What was your overall impression of the destination?
SR: Montenegro is a ‘rare find’! Eastern Europe is becoming increasingly popular with travellers from around the world and tucked away from that touristic hustle-bustle is this happy and laid back nation. From the warm Adriatic Coast to the snow covered peaks of Durmitor & Prokletije National Parks, Skadar lake to Tara canyon, the unspoilt beauty and stunning landscapes of the country don’t cease to fascinate you. Cetinje offers a glimpse into Montenegro’s past and near the charming Pljevlja town are the remains of a Roman settlement nearly 2500 years old. The countryside’s rustic charm, quaint villages and friendly people add up to make it a wholesome travel destination.
Tourism is still in its nascent stages in some of the Balkan nations and you find an earnest desire in the people to offer travellers a true reflection of their country.
NDE: Are there any particular memories or highlights which stand out for you?
SR: This is always a tough one to answer! There were many highlights, but what really made this trip truly memorable was all the farm visits, where we had our meals and got a chance to meet the hosts. Every host used their own traditional family recipes and they were really proud to be completely self-sufficient. They grow their own vegetables and fruits, maintain their own bee colonies to produce honey, prepare jams, cheese, butter, oil, wines, brandy and of course rakija. What really struck me was how satisfied & content they were with their lives, keeping the family traditions alive. The big cities and corporate jobs failed to lure their children and grandchildren and they are all happy, living a much better quality of life in the country. Some of them have also set up cottages/accommodation on their farms where travellers can spend a few nights.
NDE: That really is a great advert for sustainable and responsible tourism in the Balkans. At New Deal Europe we are always saying that the Balkan region is the leader in sustainable tourism activities. What is your view based on your experience of this fam trip?
SR: I completely agree with that. Tourism is still in its nascent stages in some of the Balkan nations and you find an earnest desire in the people to offer travellers a true reflection of their country. During the InnoTourClust B2B event I also met suppliers from Albania, who are part of this cluster, and all of them are working towards the same goal of promoting sustainable tourism and also supporting all other cluster members. If there is anything they do not produce themselves, they buy it from other cluster members. The Montenegrin Tourist Board has a very young team, and it was wonderful to see their energy and enthusiasm in promoting responsible tourism ethics.
NDE: Would you recommend the same itinerary to your clients, and what are the reasons for your answer?
SR: The itinerary is all encompassing, so a good one for clients to enjoy a blend of experiences. Though depending on their interests, I would recommend a day or two extra at some places. Be it culture, history, local interaction, food & wine, photography, birding, gentle activity or high adrenaline adventure, there is something for everyone in the itinerary.
NDE: It looks like you will be promoting Montenegro and other amber list destinations in the region. How will you do that?
SR: We have been and will continue to each out to clients via our newsletter, social media, blogs and monthly webinars promoting amber list destinations. The reason behind doing that is not to push clients to book a holiday, but to actually make them aware of what it actually entails so they can make informed decisions regarding travel. We offer them flexibility to move dates or change to other tours should the situation change at the last minute, so all the worry is taken out of their hands. If clients feel safe and confident about travelling and as I mentioned earlier, happy to pay the extra costs and quarantine at home, we don’t see why that should not happen. There are certainly clients who don’t mind quarantining on return, or paying extra for tests, as long as they get to travel. The other plus point with amber destinations, unlike green list countries, is that you don’t have flight loads of people travelling to the same destination or returning in hordes if the government decides to change the regulations suddenly.
That said, restrictions are being eased now, and interest in travel is picking up. From 19th July there will be no quarantine for those returning from amber list countries, if they have been double vaccinated, and this is a big step in the right direction. I think amber list destinations are a safe bet now, with fairly empty flights, and fewer tourists at the destination so you have the sights to yourself at many places. Social distancing at its best! My personal recommendation would be to make use of that opportunity before the crowds pick up!
The other plus point with amber destinations, unlike green list countries, is that you don’t have flight loads of people travelling to the same destination or returning in hordes if the government decides to change the regulations suddenly.
NDE: finally Sunita, if people want to follow in your footsteps, and book this trip, how can they contact you?
SR: The best way to reach us would be to send an email to enquiries@traveltheunknown.com or fill in the contact form on our website.
NDE: That’s great Sunita. Thanks for being with us today and sharing all that information. I am sure you have inspired many people to push the boundaries, and look at what’s possible within current constraints, and thank you for your support of the New Deal Europe region.
SR: I do hope this will help people by giving them a fairly clear idea of the destination and also the travel procedure. It was lovely chatting with you, thank you for giving me the opportunity to share my experiences.
Visit was partly supported by National Tourism Organisation of Montenegro.
New Deal Europe is the only travel market platform dedicated to generating business to Balkan region of Europe, www.newdealeurope.com. Follow us on LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/company/newdealeurope.
